In summer, the estuary is at full tide twice a day and the light on the water from Fore Street is something that makes people stop walking. The town is small, largely unchanged in its core streets, and has enough to fill a day comfortably.

This is a guide from The Galley Restaurant — we've been on Fore Street for 36 years, so we know the estuary in every season. Summer is the one where the combination of water, light, walk, and dinner works best. See our full guide to places to eat in Topsham for the rest of the dining scene.

What is the Exe Estuary Trail — and which section should I walk?

The Exe Estuary Trail is a twenty-six-mile walking and cycling route around the river from Exeter to the sea at Exmouth and Dawlish Warren. The best single section for a day walk is Topsham to Turf Lock — two miles each way, flat, estuary on both sides, with a pub at the turning point. Allow ninety minutes return.

The section from Topsham south to Turf Lock is the best single stretch — flat, wide, tidal mudflat on one side and grazing marsh on the other. In summer the waders are gone (they winter here) but the reeds are full and the estuary is at its broadest. The Turf Hotel, a pub with no road access at the lock, is worth stopping at for a drink before returning. In summer they run a ferry from Turf across to Exmouth; you can come back by train from Exmouth to Topsham if you want to extend the walk.

The trail north from Topsham to Exeter runs four miles along the opposite bank of the estuary — good for a longer day if you're walking rather than cycling. The RSPB Exminster and Powderham Marshes reserve sits along this stretch; summer brings marsh harriers and peregrine, and the reeds are at their peak.

Is Powderham Castle worth visiting?

Yes — particularly in summer. Powderham Castle has been the seat of the Earls of Devon since the fourteenth century and is one of the most complete medieval estates still in private use in England. It sits three miles south of Topsham on the west bank of the estuary, open May through October with house tours, gardens, woodland walks, and a deer park. In summer they host concerts and events in the grounds; check the Powderham website for the season programme.

Combining a morning at Powderham with lunch at The Galley works well — the castle is twenty minutes from Topsham by car, and the timing fits a 12 noon lunch service. If you're coming by bike, the Exe Estuary Trail passes the Powderham estate on the west bank.

What wildlife can I see on the Exe Estuary in summer?

The Exminster and Powderham Marshes RSPB reserve occupies the grazing marshland between Exminster and the estuary, directly across the water from Topsham. It's one of the better summer birding sites in Devon — marsh harriers breed here, peregrine hunt the estuary margins, and the reedbeds hold bearded tits year-round. The reserve is free to enter; park at Exminster village and walk down to the marsh. The views back across the estuary to Topsham are worth the trip even if you're not a birder.

What is there to do in Topsham?

Fore Street runs from Topsham Quay inland through the old town. The Dutch-influenced merchants' houses from the seventeenth century — Topsham was a significant wool-trading port — are the most striking architecture. The Topsham Museum, in a former sail loft on the quay, is small but properly run and gives the town's history clearly in about forty-five minutes.

The antique shops on Fore Street are worth an hour if that's your interest. For a riverside drink before dinner, The Passage House Inn on Ferry Road has tables looking over the water — one of Topsham's older pubs, on the site of the old ferry crossing.

Dinner at The Galley

The Galley is at the top end of Fore Street — a three-minute walk from the quay. Summer is the strongest season for the menu: John Dory, sea bass, dressed crab, Exe Estuary mussels, lobster when the boats have been working the reef ground. The dining room looks out over the estuary; at high tide in summer, the water fills the view completely.

Dinner is served Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm. Book ahead — the dining room fills in July and August particularly. Lunch is served Tuesday to Saturday from 12 noon (the Prix Fixe from £20). Call 01392 876078 or book via the website. For groups of twelve or more, see private dining.

Getting to Topsham

By train

The Avocet Line runs from Exeter Central to Exmouth via Topsham — twelve minutes, roughly every thirty minutes through the day. Topsham station is about a ten-minute walk from The Galley. This is by far the most straightforward option in summer when Topsham Quay car park is full.

By bike

The Exe Estuary Trail runs along the estuary via Topsham, passing The Galley's door — a blue cycle sign points the way. It's about six miles of mostly traffic-free, flat path from Exeter city centre. The Galley can store bikes during dinner if you call ahead.

By car

From Exeter, follow the B3182 south — about fifteen minutes. Topsham Quay car park is the most convenient (EX3 0JN) and is usually free in the evenings. It fills quickly on summer weekends; arriving before noon or after 6pm avoids the worst of it.